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The Light of Jingdezhen
Jingdezhen, nestled in the transitional zone between Huangshan, Yushan Mountains and
the
Poyang Lake plains, represents a typical Yangtze River region red soil hilly area where
kaolin—the clay essential for porcelain—is locally sourced. The city, semi-encircled by
mountains with the Changjiang River flowing through and into Poyang Lake, historically
relied on this waterway as its vital external communication channel. The porcelain
produced by Jingdezhen's countless ceramicists was transported via the turbulent
Changjiang River to all corners of the world.
At the Taoci River's ceramics industrial heritage museum, we witnessed a
culturally rich
exhibition. Jingdezhen's history unfolded before us in humanistic fashion—the scenes,
precious artifacts, and photographs bringing the stories of ancient potters and kiln
workers to cinematic life.
Originally the state-owned Universe Porcelain Factory, the Taoci River site is
now a
national industrial heritage site, receiving the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Region Innovation
Award for Cultural Heritage Protection in 2017. It meticulously preserves the
fingerprints of potters from Jingdezhen's century-long ceramic industry.
Walking through evening-lit Jingdezhen streets, many alleys feature textured
cobblestone
roads that, though sloped and potentially slippery, offer distinctive charm perfect for
leisurely exploration. Taoci River has become an internet celebrity destination with
unceasing crowds day and night, particularly attracting youth. This ancient yet youthful
city draws ceramic and art enthusiasts from worldwide to this porcelain mecca. Hundreds
of studios opened by artisans are writing the entrepreneurial and innovation history of
the new porcelain era.
At the Imperial Kiln National Heritage Park, we encountered a ceramics artist
who
repeatedly emphasized that the imminent opening of the Changjiang-Jingde-Huang
High-Speed Railway represents tremendous opportunity for the porcelain capital. "The
impact will be enormous! Future external connections will be far more convenient, and
more visitors will be willing to visit the porcelain capital—more tourists interested in
experiencing Jingdezhen's artistic heritage. Our ceramic handicraft opportunities will
multiply."
With mountains towering and waters flowing, Jingdezhen, though a renowned world
city,
wasn't easily accessible historically. Following the 1982 completion of the
Anhui-Ganzhou Railway, Jingdezhen finally became a train-station city. On October 26,
2023, the Changjiang-Jingde-Huang Railway commenced trial operations. This line, a
crucial component of the Hangzhou-Nanchang High-Speed Railway, connects Nanchang to
Jingdezhen in as little as 40 minutes and Jingdezhen to Huangshan in approximately 30
minutes. Today's opening operation has substantially shortened spatial distances between
the Nanchang and Jingdezhen regions and cities like Huangshan, Hangzhou, Shanghai, and
Nanjing. Jingdezhen, this simultaneously ancient and youthful city, has entered a new
era of brilliance.
Qingyang Opera Resonates Across the White Heron Bridge
In April 2023, while visiting the under-construction Chizhou-Huangshan Railway, I
observed the Taiping Lake Grand Bridge by boat. As our small vessel glided across the
water amid light rain and brilliant sky-blue clouds mingling with azure heavens, the air
sweet and moist. Midway across the lake, clouds dispersed and sunlight intensified.
Appearing gradually was a snow-white bridge resembling outstretched wings, suspended
above the turquoise waters—the Taiping Lake Grand Bridge.
On December 29, 2022, the Taiping Lake Grand Bridge successfully completed its
closure,
becoming China's highest-speed railway bridge with the greatest span among multi-tower
cable-stayed bridges. The main bridge features a white heron design, inspired by the
flocking herons commonly seen on Taiping Lake, with white pylons and cables forming
outstretched wings soaring above the water. It recalls Li Bai's poetic verses written
during his journey here: "White herons scatter in flight, like snowflakes on verdant
mountains amid clouds." The bridge's center displays bold red calligraphy reading
'Heaven's Peace'—the four characters authored by renowned calligrapher Wang Zhongming,
reportedly a descendant of Wang Lun.
I anticipated the formal opening of the Chizhou-Huangshan Railway, envisioning
riding
the high-speed train and appreciating Taiping Lake's beauty from the bridge—an
experience I imagined would be entirely different.
What is longed for shall echo. On April 26, 2024, the Chizhou-Huangshan Railway
opened,
and I boarded the inaugural train, viewing the beautiful Taiping Lake through the window
from the grand bridge!
Located between Huangshan and Jiuhua Mountains, Taiping Lake represents Anhui's
renowned
'Two Mountains and One Lake' scenic region. With forest coverage exceeding 95% and
exceptionally high air negative oxygen ion concentrations, it's a veritable natural
oxygen bar. Situated within 30 kilometers of Huangshan, Jiuhua Mountains, Taohualtan,
and Chaji, and under 100 kilometers from world cultural heritage sites like Xidi and
Hongcun, as well as Qiyun Mountain Taoist sanctuary and historic Shexian county, all
within approximately 400 kilometers of Yangtze River Delta metropolitan areas like
Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Shanghai, the Chizhou-Huangshan Railway opening has reduced travel
times to approximately 30 minutes to the 'Two Mountains' and roughly 90 minutes to
surrounding attractions.
Taiping Lake's predecessor was a great river flowing for five thousand years;
its banks
housed the ancient town of Lingyang, with the Qingxi River downstream. Li Bai left
verses: 'As rhododendrons fade with spring's end, I return to Lingyang to fish in
evening's glow.' Scholars following Qu Yuan's legendary exile to Lingyang, with
Neo-Confucian philosopher Zhu Xi's stone inscription of 'Xiu Yin' (Verdant Shade)
remaining by the lakeside, and discoveries of Cretaceous dinosaur eggs 75 million years
old and Neolithic Zhongjiashan cultural remains testify to the region's profound
historical significance.
Now, Taiping Lake has undergone new historical transformation—the Taiping Lake
Grand
Bridge spanning the lake has become the Chizhou-Huangshan Railway's greatest highlight.
The bridge's eastern base lies in Longmen Township, western in Xinhua Township,
spanning
Taiping Lake with maximum depths of 43 meters amid complex geological and hydrological
conditions. Before construction began, builders conducted meticulous analysis and
forecasting. Engineers humorously noted, 'The lake bottom undulates wavelike.' This
presented substantial deep-water construction challenges.
Beyond technical rigor came stringent environmental protection. To bridge the
lake,
route and site selection carefully avoided natural ecological reserves while preserving
ancient architecture and historic trees. Material transportation necessitated
constructing an auxiliary road along the mountain base and waterside—an undertaking
requiring minimal environmental impact. Every detail, from width to aesthetics to
vegetation restoration, received careful handling. Eventually, this auxiliary road
became a lifeline connecting mountain residents (who previously relied solely on boats)
with the outside world. Upon project completion, local authorities requested preserving
this road, hoping to extend and transform it into a scenic pathway. Today, with the
high-speed rail operational, photography enthusiasts traverse this path to capture
moments of trains emerging from tunnels onto the bridge. Both tunnel entrances display
the red characters 'Heaven's Peace.' They exclaim, 'The train rockets through in
moments—snap a photo and it's mid-bridge, snap again and it's reached the opposite
shore!' At high-speed rail velocity, truly instantaneous.
To ensure premium quality projects, railway builders' exceptional efforts
maintained the
elegant wing-strength of these white herons. And this flock of white herons' arrival
will attract a symphony of hundred birds announcing spring and hundred industries
flourishing.
Seated on the inaugural G9298 CR450 train departing Jiuhua Mountain Station,
surrounded
by passengers' joyful laughter, my eyes remained fixed on the window. In late spring,
verdant Jiuhua Mountain foothills and white-walled black-tiled Anhui-style dwellings
unfolded. Transported through this Anhui-flavored landscape painting, suddenly a vast
sparkling expanse of blue water—utterly unexpected!—filled the view as the train
ascended the Taiping Lake Bridge. In mere 20 seconds of wind-powered flight, the water,
sky, bridge, and train perfectly merged into one.
As the high-speed train departed the bridge toward Huangshan West Station, I
lingered in
contemplation. Then, melodious Qingyang opera tones drifted into the cabin;
traditionally dressed Qingyang opera inheritors were performing 'Record of Hundred
Flowers' for passengers. I reflected that soon, in beautiful Qingyang, this region would
welcome visitors from all directions, as Qingyang opera resounds across Taiping Lake.
And the Chizhou-Huangshan corridor offers far more than these wonders to explore!
Taking the High-Speed Rail to Xianju
The desire to revisit Xianju emerged long ago.
Yet previously, no direct rail connected to Xianju. From Nanjing, one could only
travel
to Taizhou West by high-speed rail, then transfer at the adjacent long-distance bus
station for a 2-hour bumpy journey.
Xianju County belongs to Taizhou, Zhejiang Province. Established in the third
year of
Eastern Jin Emperor Mu's reign (347 CE) as Legan County, it was renamed Yong'an during
the Five Dynasties, and finally Xianju in 1007 CE by Song Emperor Zhenzong, who observed
it possessed 'blessed mountains and heavenly grottoes shielding cardinal directions,
harboring countless divine immortal residences.' Its recorded history spans over 1,600
years.
Emperor Zhenzong possessed a romantic spirit! This fine name brought good
fortune.
Xianju remained prosperous, peaceful, and content—living up to its name of Yong'an
(Eternal Peace). The region attracted eminent Buddhist monks and Taoist masters; the
Stone Head Buddhist Monastery (now Daxing Temple in Shiniu) was established in 194 CE,
predating the renowned Guoqing Temple by four centuries. The Eternal Ning River
(originally named Yong'an Stream), mother river of Taizhou, originates here, flowing
eastward for a hundred kilometers. The region's mountains possess distinctive character,
combining Tiantai's profundity with Yandang's dramatic peaks. Renowned as the world's
largest and most typical rhyolite landform, each peak stands independently and
majestically, carved as if by divine cleaver and axe—serenely isolated.
Upon alighting from the long-distance bus, reaching Xianshen Scenic Area
required
another 40-minute taxi ride. I remember thinking then how wonderful it would be if
Xianju soon connected via high-speed rail.
Time leaps forward two years. Standing at Xianju High-Speed Railway Station, I
immediately photographed it and shared with friends: Look, Xianju Station!
The Hangzhou-Wenzhou High-Speed Railway extends from Tongluo East Station in
Hangzhou,
with nine stations: Tongluo East, Pujiang, Yiwu, Hengdian, Pan'an, Xianju, Nanxi River,
Wenzhou North, and Wenzhou South. The newly constructed mainline spans approximately 260
kilometers with 350 km/h design speed. Construction commenced in June 2020, with railway
builders encountering mountains and excavating tunnels, bridging water with 81 tunnels
and 117 special and major bridges constructed—achieving a bridge-and-tunnel ratio of
94.5% across the entire line. Thus crossing mountains and waters, the line penetrated
into Zhejiang's interior, gradually bringing this realm of immortals closer to the
world. August 2024 will mark the Hangzhou-Wenzhou Railway's opening highlight.
My most cherished is Xianju Station, located in Xianju County, Taizhou,
positioned in
southeastern Zhejiang's western Taizhou region. The county borders Linhai and Huangyan
eastward, Yongjia southward, Jinyun westward, and shares northern boundaries with Pan'an
and Tiantai. Hills and mountains occupy over 80% of its territory; this advantageous
geographical position has created numerous scenic wonders. Standing at the high-speed
station plaza, the celebrated Xianshen Mountains seemingly tower directly overhead.
Following the high-speed rail opening, supporting public transit will transport
passengers to the scenic area, approximately 15 kilometers away, reaching within 20
minutes.
Xianju Station's design embodies exceptional 'immortal spirit'—designers
possessed
poetic sensibilities. Given the constant clouds and mists enveloping the Xianshen
Mountains, they adopted 'High Mountain Flowing Water, Subtle Smoke and Waves' as the
design concept, employing 'cloud patterns' to outline architectural contours while using
interweaving and stacked techniques to create façade elements expressing ethereal
lightness. The station entrance combines traditional Xianju folk craft 'boneless flower
lanterns' with roofline design, forming 'cloud gate' spatial implications. Through
horizontal grilles combined with glass curtain walls' visual contrasts expressing
traditional Chinese landscape painting's artistic rhythm, Xianju High-Speed Station
appears as a 'Cloud Station Hall.' These designers' refined thoughts await appreciative
passengers upon arrival at Xianju Station.
During May in Xianju, yellow loquats hang abundant on branches; June brings
celebrated
medlars ripening. These local medlars rival ping-pong balls in size with exceptionally
rich flavors. Nearly every household cultivates medlar trees; they thrive before houses
and behind structures. During harvest season, mountain farmers set out early to pick
fresh fruits, package them by midday, and dispatch them such that surrounding townships
receive fresh Xianju medlars the same day. Yet now that high-speed rail connects, one
could realize the wish of riding high-speed rail directly to medlar groves to taste
fresh fruit.
Upon viewing my shared Xianju Station photo, a friend immediately extended an
invitation: 'Once the high-speed rail opens, let's visit Xianju again!'
Absolutely—during the previous Xianju visit, many aspects remained 'unfinished'—we
hadn't properly appreciated the 'needle-point boneless flower lanterns' at ancient Petan
Town, hadn't leisurely wandered Eternal Ning River's nocturnal beauty, had observed
Xianshen's sunset but longed for sunrise immersion. The unique volcanic rhyolite
landforms' strange peaks, overlapping ridges, caverns, cliffs, and precipices—designated
by experts as a natural museum for rhyolite research—deserve revisiting exploration.
Legendary Song painter Guo Xi expounded in 'The Lofty Message of Forests and
Streams'
that 'mountains possess three perspectives: viewing mountain summits from base
constitutes height-distance; peering mountain depths from front constitutes
depth-distance; viewing distant peaks from nearby mountains constitutes plain-distance.'
Xianju connects with the Yandang mountain system and Kuangshan range; these mountains
distant and near seem insurmountable, prompting ancients to sing of divine realms
appearing beyond reach. A thousand years later, high-speed rails pierce mountains and
cross seas, carrying mortals repeatedly to Xianju where we stand shoulder-to-shoulder
with immortals.
Thus I desire boarding high-speed rails to Xianju, becoming temporarily a
celestial
being among mortals.
In 2024, multiple high-speed rail projects throughout the Yangtze River Delta
region
have commenced comprehensive construction acceleration. Subsequently, the Yangtze River
Delta will achieve comprehensive high-speed rail connectivity for bidirectional
arrivals. The rapid high-speed rail development throughout the Yangtze River Delta
region will facilitate expedited information flow, knowledge borrowing, learning, and
economic cooperation. 'When transportation flourishes, all industries prosper.' China's
railways and railway workers, on the path to national enrichment and strength, forge
ahead with determination.
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